the one where I go absolutely *feral* at Citypharma
plus, a Q&A with Carina Otero, founder of She Is Not Lost
bonjouuuur from my apartment in Paris!!
wow, it feels CRAZY to say that. six weeks ago, I wrote to you all, sharing that I was trying to find a sublet for my place back in New York so that I could make a month-long stint in Paris make sense financially. I felt super hesitant to put something I wanted so badly into the universe, fearful that if I put this desire to go to Paris out there and, for whatever reason, I couldn’t make it work, it would feel like a failure. the irony (of course) is that all it took was putting the desire into the world to manifest it into a reality.
I realize I never really updated you all on what transpired, but I found a place in the 11th arrondissement through my travel industry network and a photographer who is subletting for my place in the West Village through friends. logistics fell into place so beautifully that I had no reason not to move forward! by mid-August, I had all the details worked out for both apartments and six flights booked, touching three continents and four countries to pull it all together. before we get into how the first week back in France has gone, here’s a recap of what we’ll be covering in today’s sunday series:
my hottest packing hack: how to not travel with a checked bag but still have one :)
the app I’m never traveling without again
Q&A with Carina Otero, Paris-based founder of She Is Not Lost
my Amazon storefront with 19 French pharmacy finds I adore
paid subscriber exclusive: my guide to what to Citypharma, including a breakdown of the products you can’t miss snagging on your next trip to Paris
[ heads up, this post is too long for email and is best viewed on the Substack app or via the Substack site on your laptop! speaking of, your engagement on Substack via a “like” or “comment” helps the sunday series reach more people and is SO appreciated! xKD ]
my hottest packing hack: Luggage Free
as my departure approached, I knew one of the big logistical challenges I still had yet to sort out was how I was going to travel across Colombia (if you’re new here, I spent my 31st birthday week traveling through Colombia!) with two bags. we had multiple inter-country flights where baggage restrictions were tough, and I didn’t want to deal with the stress of checking a big suitcase that could get lost in transit I didn’t need for that portion of my trip in the first place. and that’s where Luggage Free comes in.
Luggage Free is a specialty service offering travelers the ability to ship luggage ahead to any destination worldwide, allowing them the ability to avoid the inconvenience of carrying, checking and claiming luggage – even going through customs.
it was my first time using this service, and I couldn’t recommend it enough, not just for situations like mine, but literally any trip where you want to have your bag either awaiting your arrival in your destination, or shipped straight home for you. the more I talk to travel industry friends about this service, the more I realize there are SO MANY use cases (ski trip, golf trip, a shopping trip that devolves into needing an extra suitcase…the list goes on and on!).
the process was simple. I had my bag packed up and ready to go a few days before my departure from New York. that meant committing to what I’d want to wear in the Dolomites in mid-October when it was in the 80s in New York in early September, so it really forced me to think ahead! but in a good way. I got the hardest part of prepping for departure done days before I was actually leaving.
Luggage Free sent a white glove shipment pickup straight to my apartment, and they texted that they were downstairs during the hour we had blocked for the handoff. I saw my suitcase wheeled into their truck and hoped for the best! I had popped an AirTag into the bag and locked up the suitcase, so I felt confident it’d be fine. the bag was processed with DHL that night, and I then watched it hang out at JFK before flying to the EU.
part of the Luggage Free process includes uploading your passport and flight confirmation so the bag can pass through customs without you. while I was going to be staying in an apartment, I was picking up the keys at Hotel Costes where a friend is the GM, so I opted to ship the suitcase straight to the hotel where it awaited my arrival. in addition to seeing it arrived safely via my AirTag, I was getting confirmation emails from Luggage Free about its successful delivery! I made a video about the process below, so I hope that’s helpful to further breakdown the process if you’re interested in trying out this service! for my friends who work with travel advisors, this is something your advisor can help facilitate for you.
the hurdles of getting settled
this week, Instagram saw the highlight version of my arrival. bustling Place des Vosges on 78-degree days. lunches on terraces accompanied by a cheeky mid-day glass of Chablis. the Eiffel Tower sparkling from the balcony of Hotel de Crillon. a visit to Musée d’Orsay. vendors sweeping up their sideways on the Seine.
all of that bliss did in fact happen, but behind the scenes, there was also the unsexy parts of getting settled. when I landed Monday night, I had a very high high of being within mere feet of the Olsen twins (my thirteen year old self would have been so disappointed that I don’t know WHICH Olsen I made eye contact with) and the low low of getting to my apartment building and not actually knowing WHICH DOOR was mine. I had keys, knew which floor I was supposed to be on, and realized there were actually no numbers on the apartment doors. luckily, there were only three and voilà, process of elimination found me inside my new place. that was before I was filled with a scary, “omg, what did I do??” feeling that night. I think it was the jetlag talking.
but then, the wifi didn’t work for three days. and I almost lost my goddamn mind. you see, a very critical part of working remote is…internet. I’d been OOO for seven working days. all I wanted was to catch up. to be stationary. the wifi code provided to me wasn’t working. there was a communication lag. stereotypically onerous French bureaucracy (aka no urgency) reared its ugly head. I was on the VERGE of a proper menty B, taking Zoom calls from random hotels and spiraling on what to do next. I had calls at 9p local time due to the time difference, I couldn’t be taking those in hotel lobbies!
but here’s where my near-breakdown hopefully manifests into a recommendation that can help you on a future trip. since I have internet automatically no matter where I travel, I’ve never looked into getting a local SIM card. but, the speed at which that internet works is shaky AT BEST and that just wasn’t going to cut it for a month, particularly if I wasn’t going to have wifi. so, I figured out my first eSIM! basically, there’s no more putting a physical SIM card into your phone, this is technology is embedded in our phones now, meaning you don’t have to go to a shop or get anything extra to get set up! it’s all digital.
how to set up an Orange eSIM
I don’t think I’ll ever do an EU trip again without having an eSIM setup. it was so easy (well, once I literally stood in the bodega hotspotted to the cashier for a signal so I could download the Orange app…yeah, rough start, guys!). here’s what you’d need to do to set one up if you wanted lightening fast internet on your next EU trip.
download the Orange Travel app
set up an account
choose a plan based on your length of stay and data needs. I opted for the top plan for where I am, Holiday France 100GB, which, at 40€ is a STEAL
pay for the plan and punch in the code provided into your app!
it’s as easy as that, you know have a local number (this won’t override your actual number) and 5G service all the time
I don’t know why it took me until being DESPERATO to figure this out, but it was a great bandaid until my wifi did ultimately get reset and start working. I was able to do video calls with some lag on this service (the Holiday France plan allows you to hotspot!) and ultimately, I’m kind of grateful for this problem because it helped me be an even savvier traveler on this and future trips :)
directly after getting my wifi sorted, I put on a new top I scored in Bogota (OMG, WE DIDN’T TALK ABOUT MY AGUA BENDITA HAUL…I’m not okay at the fact that I got everything like half off in Colombia!!! perhaps we shall discuss later when it’s embroidered bathing suit season), swiped on some liquid eyeliner, and went to get me some champagne. I was finally breathing easy and at this point, settled. I’d unpacked, done laundry, secured groceries, drawn cash, put flowers in a vase, purchased metro tickets, dropped off dry cleaning (which was required to be tied to my new French phone number, double-win!), ran several times, oh, and worked, worked, worked. I am working here! swear.
about the running, I honestly don’t want to make my entire personality training for the marathon because that’s so f*cking boring, but after taking most of last week off with the exception of ten treadmill miles, I was back at it. I ran 18 miles yesterday. yes, 18. I went out in heels after (outfit below!). yesterday was a 32,841 step day that ended with me curling into bed around 2am, stomach full of profiteroles and white burgundy. and then, I got to run AGAIN today. this week, I clocked 31 miles in total.
and on that note, I’m going to turn it over to a Q&A with my friend Carina! we met in 2017 on a FAM (familiarization) trip to Sri Lanka, and oddly enough, haven’t crossed paths since. as we’ll talk about in her Q&A, Carina moved to Paris about a year and a half ago, and I’ve loved following her expat journey from afar! for the following month while I’m here, we’re going to be focusing on Q&As with voices of those who’ve been bitten by the Francophile bug, and I’m so excited to kick this mini-series off with Carina! enjoy, lovelies.
meet Carina Otero
Kayla Douglas: Carina, tell us about the origin story behind creating the She Is Not Lost community.
Carina Otero: The She is Not Lost community on Instagram was born from a love of travel, photography, and using visualization as a tool for women to see themselves in the places they’ve always dreamed of visiting. It's a celebration of female travelers that make their own decisions on how, why, and when they set out to explore the world. When I was working a 9-5 office job, burnt-out and uninspired, creating and curating the account was both a chance to escape and a chance to research where I would dream of traveling next. I’m grateful that the account has always been a passion project, and has since become a portfolio for my freelance work. It has inspired much of my personal movement and growth, and has opened so many doors to some of the most incredible travel experiences that exist.
KD: How does content creation, whether for the She Is Not Lost site or social media, factor into your approach to your travels nowadays?
I’ve found great joy in writing for the She is Not Lost blog, which more personally documents my experiences as a female traveler. Longer-form written content is my preferred way of sharing my travel advice and hopefully providing value for readers that are searching for specific information. What I've learned after working in the content creation industry for so many years is that you have to personally enjoy the format in which you are sharing content, because sticking to something for the long-term and remaining consistent is really the only way to weather the storms of algorithm changes of some platforms, while also avoiding burnout.
It’s also important to always remember that content creation is exactly that— it’s creative. You have the ability to choose your direction, your focus, and your preferred platforms, and there will always be an audience that is looking for exactly that.
That said, the way I consume content on social media is exactly how I create the content that I share: I use Instagram as a source of inspiration, and use longer-form blog content to learn all the details from individuals who have experienced it themselves. Doing so has both inspired my own travels and motivated me to create content that my audience loves to consume, and I am eternally grateful that I’ve found such alignment between the two. In fact, my most popular topics and articles that I’ve published on my blog are all about skiing and traveling with my dog. And take a wild guess what my two most favorite things are in life? Skiing and traveling with my dog!
KD: Your travels have brought you all over the world, but perhaps most excitingly, they've also allowed you to work remotely and choose your home base strategically. Why Paris?
To be totally honest, it wasn’t always a lifelong dream of mine to live in Paris. In fact, I only stepped foot in Paris for the first time in 2021, after having already traveled to 50+ countries, and two other regions of France! Part of the delay was due to the fact that I was a bit overwhelmed by the idea of Paris— I felt there was going to be too much to see and do, and I wouldn’t be able to do it justice in just a single trip. I eventually booked a 5-day visit to the city to end an 8-week trip through Europe, and immediately upon arriving in Paris for the very first time, I felt a huge sense of relief— I knew from that very moment I loved it, and that there was no urgency to accomplish everything on my “Paris list” on this first trip because I would surely be back.
I then decided I would truly savor every experience by slowing my pace. That first 5-day visit was then extended to 10 days, and before I left, I was already planning my next visit back just a few months later. Making Paris my home was honestly just a natural progression — I found myself spending more and more time here; things felt like they just made sense, and I was continuously and pleasantly surprised that any preconceived notions or unfortunate stereotypes about Parisians or French culture were wrong. I felt the strangers I would come across were friendly, kind, helpful, and patient. They would return smiles. They would laugh and make jokes with me. They would go out of their way to help me or other strangers. I could go on and on about everything I love about Paris, but this is my (not so) short answer!
KD: What were some of the most surprising things you found when you first settled in Paris about life here versus San Diego?
The earliest impression that I had of Paris is one that continues to grow stronger every day. The first thing I felt when visiting the city is this air of elegance, yet at the same time, everything is casual. That everything is intentional, yet at the same time, it’s also effortless. And every day, I seem to find examples of things that Parisians do simply for the sake of enjoyment, even though they are totally not necessary. The most obvious example of this would be the Eiffel Tower— it doesn’t have to sparkle every hour after nightfall, but it does, just because it’s beautiful and is a wonderful thing for people to enjoy. Another example would be many of the construction sites around the city— the scaffolding doesn’t have to be covered with a fabulous trompe-l’oeil of the building’s original facade, but it is, just because it’s nicer to look at. Things in Paris are beautiful simply for the sake of being beautiful, and I certainly didn’t feel or notice this about life in San Diego. The California coast has a very raw and rugged sense of beauty, but I don’t feel the same sense of effort being made in accentuating this beauty in the same way that Paris does with everyday things.
KD: What does an average "day in the life" look like for you in Paris?
Having most of my clients on the East Coast is honestly a convenient time difference for me. My mornings are slow, and I wake up with time for myself and love to start the day with a coffee and a snuggle with my beloved pup, Gigi. To be honest, I love being a homebody, and I’m grateful to have an inspiring and luminous little studio where I live and work. If i’m not immediately immersed in my personal writing by midday, I will run my errands, go for a walk, stop by one of the many new reformer Pilates studios that are popping up all over the city, or meet a friend somewhere for lunch. I’m usually back at my desk by 2 or 3 PM Paris time and typically stay there until late in the evening. My favorite time to walk around Paris is at dusk, so in the summer months, I love to end my work day by getting some fresh air around 9:30 PM. My average day in the life is not entirely glamorous, but the fact that it is so easy to simply step outside to take in all the beauty of Paris is the best and most energizing feeling.
KD: What influence has the French way of life had on how you approach work, health, beauty, and beyond?
I think the adjustment to my working hours and the fact that the French take a long break for lunch was the biggest change from my day-to-day life in San Diego. Paris prioritizes slowing down to savor a meal and to be social, as opposed to grabbing something on the go quickly or having a “working lunch” which I was totally guilty of when living in California.
In terms of health, my lifestyle in Paris is naturally more active because of how much I walk. Not only do I walk considerably more than I ever did while living in California, but there is also so much more to see and do in Paris, and therefore more things to walk to. But the best part about it is that the amount of walking is so ingrained in the lifestyle that you don’t even realize that you’re doing your health a big favor. It’s another example of something about Paris being intentional yet effortless.
As for beauty, I really feel and love that the French have a deep appreciation for aging naturally. There is certainly much less pressure to color my hair as soon as I spot a grey, and similarly, there is much less pressure to immediately touch up my Botox at the slightest sight of a wrinkle. I’ve honestly eased my upkeep because here, wrinkles and grey hairs are celebrated, and make-up is minimal. But on the other hand, I find myself dressing in a manner that’s much more polished for everyday activities— something I would rarely do in California.
I must add that after leaving San Diego and before moving to Paris, I spent more than a year living the digital nomad life all over the world. I was constantly changing environments and didn’t exactly maintain a set routine for work, health, or beauty. As much as I tend to compare the lives I’ve lived in California and Paris, I realize that I’ve been greatly influenced by all my experiences from everywhere. Habits, priorities, and routines naturally change over time, and I think the life that I’ve settled into in Paris really is just a reflection of everything that’s led me here and everything I need in this moment in time.
KD: We attended an event earlier this week hosted by Lindsey Tramuta and Glynnis MacNicol where they touched on the notion that Americans feel pleasure needs to be earned, whereas the French feel pleasure is a right. What do you make of that assessment?
It was such a wonderful event. I love hearing others’ experiences about what brought them to Paris, and I certainly found many similarities between my own experience and that of Glynnis. I 100% agree with her assessment that the French feel pleasure as a right. I would even say that the French feel pleasure is a standard. And personally, it’s an approach to life that I’ve aimed to embody even prior to moving here, which I think could have contributed to me feeling so at ease and so at home in Paris as soon as I arrived. In the last few years, I’ve certainly prioritized myself, my enjoyment, and my happiness, and naturally, I’ve found alignment in a city that prioritizes those same ideals.
KD: You're a huge skier, and living in Europe has allowed you to ski the Alps and beyond extensively. If someone were looking to plan their first Europe ski trip, where would you recommend?
Val d’Isère, Val d’Isère, and Val d’Isère. I’m grateful that my time here in Europe has allowed me to really explore and ski all over the Alps. To no one’s surprise, I’m biased toward the French Alps in particular, but I must say that of the 25 stations I’ve skied in France, Val d’Isère is a definite favorite. It really has something for every type of skier (or non-skier!). As far as the terrain goes, the Val D’Isère ski station is massive and is connected to neighboring Tignes, which is an adventurous skier’s dream come true. While a lot of ski stations in France and Europe have varied terrain that welcomes mixed levels of skiers, what I think sets Val d’Isère apart is that it offers a lot of easy terrain at higher altitudes (versus a typical layout of the bunny slopes being at the base of a mountain). So even if you’re a beginner or visiting the Alps for the first time, you can have an enjoyable “big mountain” experience at the top of the Alps at Val d’Isère without challenging your personal comfort levels.
Due to its geography, (it is just about as deep into the French Alps as it gets and thus requires some additional travel time to get there), it really feels like a hideaway or a precious gem. The town itself has everything from very cosy cabins to the finest in luxury hotel accommodations, and the shopping, dining, and ease of getting around is all the best, in my opinion. I can’t wait to go back there this next season.
KD: If someone wanted to make the leap to move to Paris, what would your advice be about how to get started with the process?
Everyone’s situation is different, but I think if you want it enough, there is always a way to make it happen for yourself. Having flexibility in your work schedule or enough savings to cover yourself while you’re here is usually helpful and/or is an essential requirement for some visa types. Definitely research the types of visas that may be applicable to your particular situation.
Other than that, really, the only advice that I can give is the exact motivation that led me here: follow your dream, have an open mind, see closed doors as trajectories to other opportunities, and trust your instincts.
KD: The Sunday Series was conceptualized as a love letter to my favorite day of the week. If we were with you in Paris on Sunday, where would you take us to spend the afternoon?
I love to say that Paris is the only city where there are a million things to do, but you could also have the best time doing nothing at all. My favorite thing to do is not at all original, but I love to walk along the Seine and picnic or lay around in the Jardin du Carrousel (the dog-friendly park between the Louvre and the Jardin des Tuileries). It’s usually the first thing anyone who visits Paris for the first time does, but for me, it’s a simple and lovely plan that has never lost its magic, and I hope never will. If we have time (and only if we have time— because I hate to rush), I love to stop by the 7th floor at Printemps Femme to peruse their second-hand and vintage designer collections or Le (Re)Store at Galeries Lafayette for even more quality vintage finds. I’ve found some great gems at these spots. After that, we’d cross check any our dozens of lists for “Best places to eat in Paris”, and likely settle on whatever recommendation we have in common. There is no shortage of great food in Paris, whether it’s a brand-new hotspot or an institutional classic. That said— I’m so looking forward to Delhi Bazaar with you tonight!
the french pharmacy of it all…
and now, without further ado, my list of products I’m addicted to after nearly two years of hitting the french pharmacy circuit HARD. if you’re on this side of the TT algorithm, I’m hardly unique in being obsessed with the affordability and high-quality products offered at the French pharmacy. that said, I know that hopping on a flight to France isn’t necessarily a realistic way to restock your medicine cabinet, so I’m breaking this cheat sheet into two parts…
in the first—available to all subscribers—I’m linking out to my updated Amazon storefront list where I’ve sourced as many of the products (pictured above!) as I can find available on Amazon. because that’s the thing, just because many of these are French pharmacy staples, it doesn’t mean you can’t get most of them in the US; it’s just that they are far cheaper in France! but if you’re craving a fix, my Amazon storefront list has all the links I could find that match up the products in my go-to list.
for my paid subscribers (LOVE YOU, MEAN IT!!!!), I’m breaking down a full list of each item I’m obsessed with and why. I’m doing this from the perspective of just having done yet another Citypharma—the Left Bank French pharmacy widely considered to offer the vastest selection across its three stories, aided by its incredible prices—haul, so I promise these products are tried and true. if you’re coming to Paris soon, make sure to block off time for a stop at this specific pharmacy because when you spend more than 100€, you can get a VAT refund on your purchase (minus medicine!). so, like, everything’s basically free? and on that note, let’s dive in…
first and foremost, I need you to prepare for the physicality involved in a Citypharma stop. it’s incredibly busy and chaotic, certainly no ‘hidden gem’ at this point, so go when you have the energy to take on crowds! but you’ve got this. and if you’re overwhelmed, ask for the assistance of one of the team members, most of whom speak English and are happy to help. also, be sure to come with a list to stay on track. I’ve often just referred to a note on my phone with the products I’m looking for and if I can’t find something, I ask one of the team members by showing them the exact product name on my phone. also, my final tip is to end on the top floor, you’re going to need to go behind the pharmacy counter (no Rx needed) for my sleeping pill rec below, and by ending there, you skip the massive queue downstairs. you’re welcome.
Klorane Dry Shampoo with Oat & Ceramide: this is my HOLY GRAIL dry shampoo. I love that it doesn’t leave a residue, doesn’t have a scent, and doesn’t dry out my scalp. I always buy four at a time, because Citypharma sells them in two packs, and two just isn’t enough, despite how long they last. four bottles brings me through a few months of salvaging blowouts. I also snag some travel sizes ones for carry-on trips. 100/10 for me!
Keep reading with a 7-day free trial
Subscribe to kayla's sunday series to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.